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Meatballs restaurant, London: review

We get our head around the latest New York foodie trend to roll into these shores

Posted: 1 January 2012
by Catherine O'Dolan

Meatballs restaurant

The Clue is in the name, you’d think, and yet the couple who sat down at the table next to us seemed somewhat perturbed to discover that Meatballs does indeed sell meatballs – only meatballs. They grimaced as they surveyed the menu and the daily specials (today it was Salmon Meatballs With Parsley Sauce) before beating a hasty and sneaky retreat before the bemused waitress came back with their amuse bouche canapes of crunchy toast with an olive tapenade. It’s rather a shame, as these are darn good meatballs. Fortunately, we were under no illusions of what fare was on offer as we nestled into our cosy oak bench and table (traditional fittings that are bolted to the floor of this Grade II listing building, which add historic authenticity, but also made it a little difficult for Joe to reach the table). 

As the traditionalist among us, six-year-old Joe opted for Beef And Ricotta Meatballs with Spaghetti in Tomato Sauce (his children’s portion included two meatballs, and dessert for £4.95). In our desire to sample something a little different, Grace went for the salmon special and I opted for Chicken With Lemon And Caperberry Sauce, with a mix of side dishes (a very tasty Pearl Barley Risotto; crunchy fresh Peas With Lettuce, Spring Onions And Cream, and Honey And Thyme Roasted Carrots, which Joe turned his nose up at – he likes his carrots plain, or crunchy and ready to dip into hummous. And, although it might not sound like much, three meatballs is enough to provide a very hearty meal (for those with a bigger appetite, you can order “bonus balls” at £1 each). Instead, we saved our appetites to enjoy dessert: Lemon And Raspberry Sorbet for the children and, for me, an old-fashioned-style baked Lemon And Vanilla Cheesecake, served with a lusciously delish raspberry coulis – at least I think it was good. Sadly for me, two pairs of little fingers also couldn't resist getting stuck into the sweet ruby nectar  n

Meatballs At The Quality Chop House, 92–94 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3EA, tel: 020 3490 6228

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